We took several hikes in preparation for this volcanic beauty and felt that since elevation was similar all of us would be fine to hike the 4km to the top ( or as close to the top as we could get).
What we did not count on was the fact that our guides would move at their pace and have little desire to go ours. In retrospect I think this is a way to support the local economy. You see as your turismo (tourism) bus makes the final trek up to the trail head the local boys with hiking sticks and men with horses run to greet you. We knew this and were prepared to rent hiking sticks. We did not prepare our horse loving youngest daughters for the fact we were not planning to rent a horse.
As it turns out we convinced a gentleman to rent us un caballo por dos hijas ( one horse for two daughters). Thankfully Y is very persuasive when pouting. We headed out with seven hiking sticks and one horse and the rest of our group. 
What they also don't tell you is that hiking trails, much like the roads, in Guatemala go straight up. No joke. While we are used to hiking switch backs there are none that we encountered on our two hikes in country. So basically you head straight up at a very quick pace. Never fear! Because your friends who tried to rent you horses in the parking lot are FOLLOWING you with horses.
My special amigo was Herman. Here's how our conversation went for the first kilometer or so.
"My name is Herman. My horse is very good, amiga. You want to ride?"
"Mucho gusto, Herman. No graciás no necesito su caballo". Through my labored breathing, this conversation went on and on repeated probably 20 times. Herman also reminded me that the walk was 4km and asked me to remember his name (How,dear Herman,could I forget?) Finally, I gave up talking to my amigo and just let him quietly ask again and again if I wanted a horse. About 3km up, Herman asked one last time "Amiga, so you no want this horse?" "No, Herman. Estoy bien, no necesito un caballo, muchas graciás". And he left to walk down and find a new potential customer. I wish I had a photo of Herman and his horse. 
We did at some point get a horse for J (from the man following Rob). And I'm glad we did. I'm not sure I could have handled a hike full of Herman's whispered questioning and small child complaining. One or the other was enough. And in all fairness it was a much more difficult hike than we'd practiced.
There were beautiful vistas along the way. 
And a geothermal power plant.
We finally reached the top (or as close as we were going to get). 
Roasted marshmallows and enjoyed Guatemalan s'mores. 
(Yes, the lava had hot spots that were very hot, sometimes so hot you had to move because your feet and shoes were getting toasted. Surprisingly there was no sulfur smell on the lava field).
And then it was time to go down but first we had to climb up out of the lava field.
And then we descended down to the lava field created by the most recent eruption four months ago. (The dark colored lava is the lava from this recent eruption).
On the lava field we shopped at the lava store
And we had a picnic lunch. Some folks heated/grilled their sandwiches near the hot spots.
The trails were a mix of sand and tiny lava pebbles and sometimes more compact earth.
Overall, a great experience! Something I never imagined doing but J has wanted to do since he was about 3 years old. Mark that one off the bucket list!
The locals talk about the number of volcanoes they've hiked like Coloradoans talk about the number of fourteeners they've scaled. Who knows which volcano we'll conquer next time. There are 33 to choose from in this beautiful country!!
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